How does Chinese food differ in Malaysia, Thailand, Vietnam, other countries of Southeast Asia?

A difficult question! This will be obvious, but Chinese food in SE Asian countries is influenced by local tastes. So in Malaysia when you order wonton mee you're also served a saucer of pickled chili slices (up to you whether or not to add soy sauce) and with pan meen, which resemble daoshao mian in texture, a tart sambal made with coriander and lime juice.

I think in Thailand, Vietnam,and the Philippines, Chinese dishes have been more 'indigenized' than they have in Malaysia. Much Chinese food in Malaysia is still very Chinese. One thing I'd say about Malaysia is that you can find dishes prepared traditionally that might be hard to come by now in China.

I was talking the other night with Jarrett Wrisley, a fellow food-obsessed writer who recently moved to Bangkok after years in China. He told me that the food he ate at Sek Yuen, my absolute favorite Chinese restaurant here in KL, is probably the best Chinese food he's ever had. The Cantonese-Malaysian dishes served there are still ... more.

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