No you won't either! Because that is your problem the PCM will only duty cycle the field current to the alternator (make the alt charge) if it receives a FEEDBACK signal from the regulator. TO TEST: The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the alternator by means of a duty cycle signal supplied on the Blue (BL) wire to the voltage regulator.
It monitors the function of the alternator by watching the feedback it receives from the voltage regulator on the Grey (GY) wire. If a non-PCM controlled unit is used, this feedback signal IS NOT generated by the regulator and the result will likely be a no charge condition, in all cases with the Charge Light often illuminated. The PCM may or may not flag a P1246 code.
To test, check the circuits of the alternator. The heavy Red (RD) wire at the alternator should show full battery voltage (fed off of the battery (+) cable), as well as the small RD wire (fed from Battery Junction Box (BJB) fuse 10) (MAKE SURE you check this fuse!) on the voltage regulator connector. If power is OK, disconnect the regulator connector and measure resistance on the voltage regulator terminals of the alternator assembly.
Place meter leads between the terminal that connects to the small RD wire (terminal 3), and the terminal that connects to the BL wire (terminal 2). Resistance should be 750-3500 ohms. If the reading shows high resistance or open circuit, replace the unit with the correct alternator assembly.
ADDED: Do you want my pay pal acct. # now or later? Lol.
You really need to breakdown and buy a new or remanufactured alternator most auto parts stores have life time warranties on them. Have them "Bench Test" both you old one and the new one you are buying have them test both at least three times. Before installing the new alternator make sure your battery is disconnect and fully changed!
Before reconnecting.
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