MY furnace blows lukewarm air, is there some internal setting or thermostat on the furnace itself I can adjust?

My furnace is fairly new. It is a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 gas furnace.It's high efficiency and exhausts out the side of the house as opposed to the chimney. Our house has been especially cold this year, and I am realizing the air from the "heat" is not heated much at all.

Can I control how hot the air gets heated to when blowing? My thermostat on the main floor controls the temp I want the house to be at, but can I somehow control how hot the air being blown is? If not, what could be the problem with my furnace?

Could it be my thermostat is broken or malfunctioning? How can I fix this myself, or find common solutions to this problem? Asked by dwdrums 37 months ago Similar questions: furnace blows lukewarm air internal setting thermostat adjust Home > Home Improvement.

Similar questions: furnace blows lukewarm air internal setting thermostat adjust.

It could be a bad filter, a poor gas fired heater or poor air flow First thing first. When your heat is on and your furnace is blowing air, is the fire on in the furnace. Usually, uou can look down near the furnace door and see the blue flames of the gas heater.

The flames heat the air immediately surrounding them and the blower blows air through that area and the hear from the air is transfered to the moving airLet's see - let me look up this furnace, since I am unfamiliar with it specifically. I found some guys talking about troubleshooting the furnace and thought it might be useful for you---------------------------I have a 9 year old Carrier WeatherMaker 9200, it is Model #58MXA120-20. It is a 90% efficient furnace.

The problem I'm having is that the blower kicks on and then shuts off without turning the burners on. It continues to cycle this way. One interesting clue to the problem is that I can turn off the power for a short while (approx.1/2 hour), turn the power back on and it will run.

I don't want to use the term "properly" as that may/may not be the case. When it runs, the blower kicks on, runs a few minutes then shuts off, then the burners turn on and run a few minutes and then the blower kicks on again, properly heating the home. ------------------------------------------------Last Sunday morning, I ran into the exact same problem on the same Carrier model.

The blower you are referring to is actually called the inducer. It is a fan that vents out the gas exhaust and also sucks in the fresh air for the gas burners. Mind you, I am not a hvac mechanic but I have engineering background and I learned a lot in the 3 days that I debugged the problem.

We bought this house 2 years ago and it is only now that it gave us this problem. The inducer also creates vacuum that activates the pressure switch that then turns on the ignition for the gas burners. A previous post mentioned that a probable cause is too much water or condensation in the system.

I found that to be true. The water inside the inducer housing causes the inducer motor to slow down and therefore creates insufficient vacuum for the pressure switch to activate...hence no ignition. If there is too much water, then why is it not draining?

There are 2 big hoses, one coming from the inducer housing and the other from the collector box and both going to the condensate trap. My condensate trap is located externally and I could watch the very little water trickling down from it. I decided to remove the condensate and clean it...thinking it is clogged.No, it isn't.

However as I was removing it, I removed another translucent hose from the condensate trap and as I removed it, the water suddenly gushed out of the condensate trap towards the water pump that sends the water to the basement drain. That translucent hose was connected to the lower left side of the inducer housing and goes to the Relief Port of the condensate trap. I think it allows the condensate to breathe so that the water inside it can drain.

On the inducer housing, it was connected to a post without any hole....interesting, no wonder it couldn't breathe. I put things back together and let that hose hanging loose....lo and behold the water started draining and the gas burners ignited, problem solved? Well I read the installation manual and I found out that the furnace is shipped from the factory with the translucent hose plugged into a "guidepost" in the inducer housing.

During installation, it must be "relocated" to the upper right hand corner of the collector box. I checked this location and there was a post with a hole that is covered with epoxy or wax(I think). I got my drill and drilled the hole and plugged the translucent hose into it.

It has been 9 hours now that things are running perfectly. It seems that my 10 year old WeatherMaker was never installed properly to begin with. A question that arises is why did it work for 10 years?

I noticed that previously, whenever the inducer motor starts to run, I could hear the violent swish of water and I don't hear that anymore. My theory is that somehow over the years, the inducer motor has weakened.It is a capacitor motor and capacitors loose their capacitance over the years. I could probably buy a 3 mfd, 250v capacitor to prove the point but I am satisfied for now.

---------------------------------------------Thanks for the detailed description.It got me to a solution for mine (Nordyne pressure switch). I read the installation guide and found that mine also was installed incorrectly. There is a flexible drain tube that is supposed to slope downward to the drain, but the way they had it laid in there it went down and back up so water would pocket there.

I had to shorten and reroute it to get it correct. However, that did not solve my problem. I started playing with the small vacuum tubes that connect the inducer and the pressure switch.

I noticed that there was vacuum coming from the inducer port and if I sucked on the hose to the switch, I could hear the switch tripping. But when I did that, the light kept flashing the error code. So I unhooked the wires to the switch and put a tester on it.

Then I sucked on the hose, heard it click, but the tester showed that the switch wasn't connecting. So I sucked harder a few times and then it went. I think the switch was stuck.

Hooked the wires back on and away it went. -------------------------------------------I don't know if you're still paying attention to this, but I've had a problem with mine behaving that way because of condensation build up in the pipes leading to the outside. The rise isn't quite right on them and water tends to build up in them.

-----------------------------------------------Have a Carrier Weathermaker 9200 series 160 Model #58MXA040 with problems. Propane fueled. Moved into the house 2 years ago, the furnace came with the house, do not know who installed.

First winter, L:ED code 14 and then 34. Service call to repair. Handed tech the manual.

He could not specify cause, but was able to get furnace to come back on. Second winter, same LED codes. Different tech, same company.

Tech also not sure of cause, but replaced propane tank condensor and suggested heat tape around the condensor, something I did NOT do. He said former owner had huge huge headaches with same problem, to the point where the outside propane tanks were replaced. Tanks are on NW corner of house, if that has any bearing, and are not underground.

This winter: same codes when temp dipped below 32 degrees outside, I called for service and insisted on experienced tech I got the name of by asking around. Had to wait a week, to get him, which meant powering off the furnace, pouring warm water over the condensor of the propane tank 2-3 times a day. This tech adjusted several things, replaced the condensor, angled the vent of it down, adjusted the gas pressure, cleaned the whole furnace, checked the ground, and every possible thing in the manual - could not find definitive cause.

He was not happy with the fact that there was no "smoking gun" solution. Neither, of course, was I. At any rate, this morning at 4 AM, temp outside dipped to 0 degrees F and same problem, same LED codes (14 and then 34).

Called Carrier, who said no recalls applied, etc. Have another service call in. Can someone advise? Any brght ideas I can share with the next service person that shows up?

I'd like the problem fixed. I'm sick of waking up with the house at 50 degrees F and having to worry, and not getting to the bottom of the problem despite service calls. ------------------------------------------------------#14 default= ignition lockout, control will reset after 3 hours.

Refer to #34. #34 default= ignition proving fault. Check for gas valve turned off, oxide build up on flame sensor, main shut valve turned off, Green wire must be connected to furnace sheet metal, proper flame sense microamps (.5 micro amps DC minimum), inadequit flame carry over or rough ignition, low inlet gas pressure.

Sounds like a bad regulator. Need to check that mutha with a utube monometer. I would monitor inlet and outlet pressures with all gas appliances running.

You say he replaced the regulator? If so, it could be a bad valve with a weak solonoid. --------------------------------------------------------- Sources: 25 years in commercial heating and air .

1 You might try google-ing "trouble shoot a furnace thermostat," but honestly, Friend you sound like and uncertain do-it-your-selfer. If it has worked/blown hot before there's something wrong and it could be the thermo, are not. Do you hear the furnace start when crank the thermo up?

If you do it probably ain't the thermostat. Good luck.

You might try google-ing "trouble shoot a furnace thermostat," but honestly, Friend you sound like and uncertain do-it-your-selfer. If it has worked/blown hot before there's something wrong and it could be the thermo, are not. Do you hear the furnace start when crank the thermo up?

If you do it probably ain't the thermostat. Good luck.

2 There are quite a few things that could be wrong. You should call a reputable heating contractor and have it checked out. A lot of companies give free estimates.My ex is a heating and A/C journeyman.

From past conversations, I would guess the most common causes could be the ignitor, the coil, or blockage in the orafice that feeds the gas.

There are quite a few things that could be wrong. You should call a reputable heating contractor and have it checked out. A lot of companies give free estimates.My ex is a heating and A/C journeyman.

From past conversations, I would guess the most common causes could be the ignitor, the coil, or blockage in the orafice that feeds the gas.

5 My problem is that I am in commercial. We don't have a lot of that stuff in commercial. Few gas fired system in commercial HVAC.So I tried to locate some stuff specifically for your furnace.

If your blower is cutting on when your thermostat asks for heating, then the problem is likely not your thermostat. The problem is likely with your gas heating element, which, I admit, no knowledge of. I tried to locate specific problems (I found many, many more that did not address your problem) that you seemed to be having, ie: calling for heat and not getting it.

Did you attempt the solution called for in the forum information I posted (ie: shutting off the unit for awhile, then firing it back up and seeing if it worked)? That would indicate that the igniter problem the HVAC tech mentioned, and generally referred to the poor quality of this furnace. I couldn't speak to that, specifically, because, like most commercials, my experience is almost all in Hot Water/Chiller water coil systems, rather than air/gas heat exchangers.

And I thought I did post my source...My bad on that.

My problem is that I am in commercial. We don't have a lot of that stuff in commercial. Few gas fired system in commercial HVAC.So I tried to locate some stuff specifically for your furnace.

If your blower is cutting on when your thermostat asks for heating, then the problem is likely not your thermostat. The problem is likely with your gas heating element, which, I admit, no knowledge of. I tried to locate specific problems (I found many, many more that did not address your problem) that you seemed to be having, ie: calling for heat and not getting it.

Did you attempt the solution called for in the forum information I posted (ie: shutting off the unit for awhile, then firing it back up and seeing if it worked)? That would indicate that the igniter problem the HVAC tech mentioned, and generally referred to the poor quality of this furnace. I couldn't speak to that, specifically, because, like most commercials, my experience is almost all in Hot Water/Chiller water coil systems, rather than air/gas heat exchangers.

And I thought I did post my source...My bad on that.

You ought (again, I don't know this specific furnace) to be able to look and see the flames when the gas heater is running. I know I can on mine. Personally, even though I feel pretty confident with the DX cooling part of my home system, I call in a contractor on the furnace side.

Too many parts to go wrong, as said by someone else - orifices, rings, valves, and that's gas in there. Wrong steps and your house goes BOOM.

" "My furnace blows lukewarm air and not very much of it. Do most furnaces have a temperature adjustment somewhere?" "why did my home water temperature suddenly increase when I didn't adjust the thermostat on the water heater.

My furnace blows lukewarm air and not very much of it. Do most furnaces have a temperature adjustment somewhere?

Why did my home water temperature suddenly increase when I didn't adjust the thermostat on the water heater.

I cant really gove you an answer,but what I can give you is a way to a solution, that is you have to find the anglde that you relate to or peaks your interest. A good paper is one that people get drawn into because it reaches them ln some way.As for me WW11 to me, I think of the holocaust and the effect it had on the survivors, their families and those who stood by and did nothing until it was too late.