A lot of others have commented already with good info, so I'll try and fill in a couple blank spots here. You don't *need* filters, but they can be very helpful. UV filters are most common.
They are most commonly used as what are essentially lens protectors. If you get one to use as a lens protector, be sure to get a good quality multicoated one - not the $20 Tiffen models ones, which can increase flare which drastically degrades image quality. That bit of advice will remain consistent through here.
Hoya, B+W, and Heliopan all make fine filters. Next up are polarizing filters, which reduce from reflected light. These are very, very useful, and I strongly recommend picking one up if you shoot things outside frequently.
They can also be used to get tremendously deep blue skies if you're shooting at a 90 degree angle to the sun, and the reduction in glare helps you see through reflections off of glass, or in to water - if you want water to look clear, a polarizer is essentially mandatory, but keep in mind there are many times you don't want a polarizer for water, too, it all depends on the effect you want. Next most common are neutral density filters and graduated NDFs. The graduated ones aren't totally necessary if you have Photoshop CS3 or later as you can blend multiple exposures - basically what they do is make half of the image darker than the other half, so you can more easily expose the ground in a landscape while not blowing out the highlights in the sky.
They are very good for what they do, though. Specifically, Cokin has a system that allows full control over the point where the filter goes from clear to the point where it starts graduating to darker. These are far better than the round ones which you can only rotate, and not move up or down.
Plain NDFs just reduce the amount of light coming in through the lens. They are useful for use with flash setups in daylight, and for slowing down exposures to blur motion. They are very helpful for shooting, for example, waterfalls if you want nice and smooth water, and it's not dark out.
With a strong enough NDF, you can take 30 second + long exposures in sunlight. IR filters are less common but interesting. They are of use if you want to shoot infrared photographs, but as they block out all visible light, you can't see, and can't autofocus at all - unless you have a camera with live view.
Flourescent filters are meant for use with daylight film under flourescent lights. No sense in using one with digital, just change the white balance. There are a bunch of other useful filters, but they tend to be very specialized.
If you have more questions, feel free to ask me.
Personally, I don't think it's necessary to have filters for a DSLR. Especially, if you have photo editing software. However, I do agree that a UV filter would be good to put on the camera if for no other reason to protect the lens!
It's cheaper to replace a 20 dollar filter than it is to replace a 200+ dollar lens!
The only filter you should really "need" with a digital camera is a "circular polarizer" which can be used to reduce the whitening effect of haze, deepen blue skies, eliminate reflections on glass and water (if desired) and increase the 'punch' of wet fall foliage. To correct for lighting sources use the automatic white balance feature of your camera. When importing to you computer, use a touch of magenta colour correction to get rid of the green cast from fluorescent lighting (and some cameras have this tint ability built in).
UV and skylight filters are pretty much useless for digital photography, although the skylight filter could be used at high altitude (over 7,500 feet above sea level). If you want a filter to protect the lens, then the best filter to get is "NC" (neutral colour); and then, although more expensive, get the multicoated filters which will reduce flare effects.
My thoughts are to go with a good polarizer, and forget the other filters. The fluorescent filter is a waste because you can take care of the color cast by setting your white balance properly. I see no use for a UV filter either.As Greg said, most people use them for "protection" but that's really about it.
I fall into the camp of not using them at all. The only time I would consider using one is if I was shooting in a location with blowing sand, or salt water. I see no point in putting a cheap piece of glass in front of my lens if I can help it.
Also, they may cause flair, and other types of reflections, especially when shooting at night. Professional Grade Multi-Coated - UV filter (ultraviolet) for protection against dust, dirt, scratches, fingerprints and the sun's ultraviolet rays. Professional Grade Multi-Coated - PL filter (polarizer) which helps to provide color and contrast enhancement.
It also removes glare from non-metallic surfaces, such as windows and water. Also, color saturation in general, especially outdoors, can be improved significantly. Professional Grade Multi-Coated - FL-D filter (fluorescent) for taking pictures indoors under fluorescent lights.
This filter removes the greenish tint given off by fluorescent lighting.
Amen to the above. The neat thing about a polarizer is how it can make the sky look and how it can make water look. Before your next vacation, take your camera and polarizer lens out to a local lake for some test pictures.
Take a few with the polarizer at different angles. Then take the same pictures without the polarizing filter. Compare those when you get home and I think you'll be amazed.
You wouldn't ask unless you were a beginner, so you probably want a simple answer. The original purpose of a UV filter is obsolete; but, get one and keep it on your lens to protect it from dirt and scratches. A polarizer filter selectively blocks polarized light, so get one and experiment with it if you take photo's that include the sky or water.
The circular kind that spins is the useful kind. But don't keep it on indoors or at night because it blocks some of the available light. Fluorescent filters change the color balance, you don't need them with a digital camera.
Speaking only for myself...UV are like a cheap insurance policy for a good lens. I keep one on all the time to prevent an accidental scratch which could ruin an otherwise wonderful (and expensive) lens. Polarizer on the other hand, helps avoid that "washed out" look especially in high glare conditions.
Because a decent quality polarizing lens can be fairly expensive, it still makes sense to use a cheapo UV on top but is optional in my opinion. I do NOT use a fluorescent filter...just adjust white balance. The only other(s) I use are a graduated neutral density filter and a few special effects filters just for fun now and then.
Every filter you place in front of your lens will block out that particular wavelength of light. As far as the science behind it goes, there are more in-depth explanations that one can find on the internet, but UV/Fluorescent/polarizer filters all reduce the amount of ambient or reflected light that can cause a photo to be hazy, washed out, or blurry. Using filters creatively can add a crisper, more finished edge to a photo, if that's what you're looking for.
Many people also use UV or polarizing filters as inexpensive ways to protect the actual lens of your camera; a scratched filter is much easier to replace than a scratched lens. Before and after example attached.
In most cases it reduces the glare and makes the pictures appear sharper or more clear. When you're shooting in bright sunlight your pictures tend to have a light grey haze or there could be glare from reflections of bright objects. The filters balance these out and make the picture more pleasant to the eye.
Similar to polarized sunglasses and how they reduce glare off of water for example. These filters are only to be used for sunlight photos. You'll need to take them off in low light or night shots.
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