Correct way to make /build a patio area using pavers?

I understand gravel and sand is involved... Asked by Eve 60 months ago Similar Questions: Correct make build patio area pavers Recent Questions About: Correct make build patio area pavers Home > Home Improvement.

Similar Questions: Correct make build patio area pavers Recent Questions About: Correct make build patio area pavers.

I could describe it in detail for you (and suggest you ask JoeSceko to answer) But this web page is pretty darn good. So, let's get down to the easy bit - laying the patio! The two most common construction faults which spoil patios, are uneven surfaces, and poor foundation preparation, which can result in the patio `breaking up' and sinking in sections.

FOUNDATIONSIf the area where the patio is to go has a hard well-compacted soil base, then huge quantities of hardcore are not necessary. This type of compacted soil base is found in areas that have been well walked upon over years, or have been subject to several passes by heavy machinery. If you can dig your heel into the surface, then it will need bolstering up with a layer of MOT type 1 sub-base, compacted into the surface with a hired plate compactor.

Where the area has been used as a flower bed, or otherwise cultivated during the last few years, then it will certainly need to be prepared. A compacted base of hardcore rubble, followed by a blinding of gravel or MOT type 1 sub-base material is then laid and compacted. This can be as little as 50mm deep.

`Made-up' ground, (where soil has been deposited to raise levels) will certainly need a well prepared foundation after extensive compacting of the soil base. It would be wise to leave the area to settle before attempting to construct a patio. Regular drenches of water will accelerate the settling process.

Foundation bases are best prepared from compacted rubble and or MOT type 1 sub-base material. (Scalpings). Compact your base with a hired plate compactor.

The finished base should be even without any voids between the lumps of rubble/hardcore. The first thing to sort out is the accurate marking out of the patio shape. If you want a sweeping curve, experiment with a hosepipe laid upon the ground until you get the shape you require, then put temporary canes or pegs along the curve.

If the area - or part of it - is to be based upon a right-angle, then set out by using the 3-4-5 method. Do take time to ensure that you get this set right. Decide where the finished level of the patio is to be in relation to surrounding ground levels and damp-proof course on buildings.

It should be at least 150mm below the DPC. In deciding the finished levels, you will have to allow for a `fall' across the patio, to allow rainwater to run off. (Where is it going to go?

) You may need a drainage channel for the surface water to run into in some circumstances. (In theory, water will actually run off a perfectly level surface, but your laying technique will have to be spot on to ensure no puddling. The patio will also have to be above the surrounding ground levels.

)A normal `fall' of around 50mm over 2.4 metres is quite adequate. (This will give you a 2inch fall over the length of an 8 foot long `straightedge' in old money, and will not have people toppling off chairs. )If the patio is going next to the house, then the fall must be away from the house.

If it is absolutely impossible to fall away from the house, then surface water must be intercepted by a suitable drainage channel with adequate collection pit/soak-away. You should start laying your paving from a straight base line and work from that. Do not try to work from two fronts when using regular patterned slabs, for a slight discrepancy in your right-angle will be magnified as you progress and you could end up with widening or narrowing joints .

It is possible to lay some slabs onto a sand/cement mortar mix that has simply been screeded, but more often than not it will be better to lay each slab individually from a `trowelled bed'. Commonly, five dabs of mortar are put down - one for each corner and one in the middle. Alternatively, a shovel of mortar can be dumped where the slab is to be laid, and then trowelled out.

The mortar mix should not be too wet. Unlike bricks, paving stones are made from concrete; which does not soak up moisture. A wet mix will have your paving slabs `floating' and as you tap one down, an adjoining one will rise - leaving you with an uneven surface.

The mortar will need to be firm enough to allow the slabs to be bedded down firmly into place. Coarse sharp sand is normally used for the mix in preference to the softer `building sand'. I often use a 50/50 mixture of coarse and building sand.

It works out at half bag of each in the mix, with one and a half shovels of cement. You will need to determine the volumes of the bags of aggregate in your own area. The coarse sand gives the strength, whilst the building sand makes the mortar just a little more pliable - easier to tap the slab down into position.

This mix also seems to adhere to the slabs better than a sharp sand mix. A bedding mix of 5 aggregate (sand) to 1 of cement is usually sufficient. Perhaps a slightly stronger mix of 4 to 1 in less stable soils.

If the slab you are positioning does not want to `sit down', take it back up, remove the mortar mix from slab and base and start again. Likewise, if the slab is too eager to `sit down' do not be tempted to raise it up and ram mortar under the edge. Take it up; start again.

Check in all directions with your straightedge. For tapping the slab into position, I tend to use a pickaxe. A 1 metre length of 100x100mm (4x4inch) fence post will also act as a good punner - especially when it has been used a few times to soften the end.(If the slab is just a little stubborn, try tapping your punner - on top - from side to side.

This slight sideways movement can often drop your slab a further centimetre. )If the slabs have a flat un-patterned surface then the levelling process - using a straight edge - is reasonably basic. However, remember to set the slab to levels from two ways.

With artificial stone patterning, laying true to levels is usually a little more difficult. There can be as much a cm difference in levels from centre to edge one way or the other. This is where the ` eye' comes into its own.

A good practice in the case of uneven slabs, is to run the straight-edge along the edge, rather than across the middle. Alternatively, use the high spots of the slab as your level line, and ignore any dips towards the edges. This gives it a more realistic effect anyway.

It may be better to increase the fall with this type of slab to prevent any rainwater lingering. Say 75mm (3 inches) over 2.4 metres (8 feet). Jointing/PointingThe mixture for jointing your slabs will depend to a certain extent on the type of paving that you use.

If you use a `pressed' slab - these are normally cheaper and have very square edges, with both faces of the slab very similar in appearance - then a rather dry pointing mix is best. It is more difficult to remove cement mortar stains from this type of paving. For the moulded slabs - a smoother finish, bevelled edges with the reverse different to the face side - then a normal mortar mix will be in order.

It is much easier to remove mortar stains from the surface of this type of slab. The mixture should be of the ratio 1 part (by volume) cement to 3.5 - 4 parts building sand. Coarse sharp sand can also be used where preferable, and gives a more durable joint in areas of heavy wear.

The jointing/pointing of the paving is very important to the success and longevity of your work. It is not simply a cosmetic exercise. Make sure that the pointing mortar goes right down into the joints.

It is far better to have a slightly messy slab, which can be easily cleaned, but with a total bond between joint and mortar base. Use a complimentary or contrasting colour pigment in the mortar. Brown, black or buff are usually all right - not red.

All coloured mixes tone down considerably upon drying. Experiment if unsure. The newly laid and pointed patio, should be allowed time to `cure' before using.

This should be for at least three days in the spring/summer months. Cover with a polythene sheet and sprinkle with water during this time if necessary. Do not allow to dry out too quickly.

Joints can either be recessed by raking out partially dry mortar with a trowel or other metal `scraper', or they can be trowelled to a range of shapes. The final cleaning of `grogs' should be carried out when the mortar is near to dry - anything from 6 to 48 hours depending upon the temperature. I usually carry this out on the following day.

Let me know when the grand opening is to be..... Sources: http://www.gardenseeker.com/patio_construction.htm .

You have been busy these past few days! SInce in another question you already said you are using a magazine article for guidance, you probably already know what to do. But just in case -- 1) Mark out the area for the patio - a straight-sided patio is easiest since you are going to be using pavers.

You can cut them so you can make curves (my first project had a curved edge and was made of paver bricks) but if you do that make sure you have at least 10% more pavers than you need because they don't always cut the way you want. 2) Grade the area - you may have to dig down and move some soil, but the important thing is to have the whole area flat but slightly tilted away from existing structures in order to encourage water to drain away from your house or existing hardscape. You also may have to dig down so you have enough depth to add your layer of sand/gravel and then your pavers without going higher than any adjacent patio.

Placing stakes and running level strings across the area to make a grid will make it easier to figure out the grade. I used 1 inch for every foot but it doesn't have to be that great. Some prefer 1 inch in every 10 feet.

Use a roller (you can rent them) to pack the soil down well and evenly. 3) Outline the area. Pavers will need something to keep them together.

The simplest is to use pressure treated lumber with lengths of rebar driven into the ground through holes drilled in the wood to keep it in place. You can also use purchased edging or even a cement curb. 3a) You can at this point put down a pre-emergent herbicide like Preen and/or a porous weed cloth under every thing to help slow down weed growth between your pavers if you want, or you can plan to deal with weeds later on as they come up with Round-up or a string trimmer.

4) Fill the area with about 4 inches of your substrate material. It can be sand, gravel, caliche, crushed granite, or whatever runs least expensive for your area. PAck it lightly and evenly.

5) Set in your pavers starting at one edge or corner and working toward the other. Keep checking for level and eveness as you go. 6) Once all the pavers are in finish things off with the roller again so the pavers are level the way you want.

Then you can either sweep sand or morter mix into the cracks (or again a pre-emergent herbicide). The morter mix will set up over time as it gets moist. Sources: My Experience darwin™'s Recommendations Walks, Walls & Patios: Plan, Design & Build Amazon List Price: $19.95 Used from: $1.40 Average Customer Rating: 4.5 out of 5 (based on 2 reviews) Outdoor Rooms: Designs for Porches, Terraces, Decks, Gazebos Amazon List Price: $20.00 Used from: $6.95 Average Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 (based on 7 reviews) Decks & Patios for Dummies Amazon List Price: $16.99 Used from: $39.75 Average Customer Rating: 4.5 out of 5 (based on 2 reviews) Step-by-Step Outdoor Stonework: Over Twenty Easy-to-Build Projects for Your Patio and Garden Amazon List Price: $18.95 Used from: $10.03 Average Customer Rating: 5.0 out of 5 (based on 2 reviews) .

1 darwin, regarding your answer "You have been busy these past few days! ": Oh yeah!...and on a tight buget-cant wait to enjoy it! Thank you :) .

Darwin, regarding your answer "You have been busy these past few days! ": Oh yeah!...and on a tight buget-cant wait to enjoy it! Thank you :).

2 You most certainly will enjoy it. On our current house, we added a huge patio in the back for entertaining, then a small one in front for waiting for the kids to come home and watching hummingbirds (at the same time we replaced the front lawn with trees, shrubs, and perennials), limestone flag pathways, a screened porch last year, and now we are working on several more small limestone patios for various outdoor "rooms. "We love hanging out in the yard and often have friends who wander over just to sit and enjoy it, too.

You most certainly will enjoy it. On our current house, we added a huge patio in the back for entertaining, then a small one in front for waiting for the kids to come home and watching hummingbirds (at the same time we replaced the front lawn with trees, shrubs, and perennials), limestone flag pathways, a screened porch last year, and now we are working on several more small limestone patios for various outdoor "rooms. "We love hanging out in the yard and often have friends who wander over just to sit and enjoy it, too.

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I want to build a home that will last 1000 years. What do I build it out of?

Do I get a tax break on home improvement loans.

I'm looking for a home improvement / DIY group on usenet.

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