Is graphite non metallic or metallic?

Metallic threads that are wound on tiny spools tend to coil and will not relax. This means the thread is going to twist while it runs through the thread path of the machine and will likely break before it gets to the needle. Look for metallic thread that is wound on larger spools and that hang fairly straight when unrolled from the spool.

The best needle for metallic threads is a size 90/14 Top Stitch Needle. These needles are easy to find and fit almost any sewing machine. They have a larger, elongated eye and have an extra deep groove in the needle shaft that allows the thread to travel down and through the needle more easily, preventing fraying and breaking.

When you are using a metallic thread on the top of the machine, use a 60-weight thread in the bobbin. This thread is slightly thinner than a standard 50-weight piecing thread so it will be less bulky when catching the metallic thread and holding it to the surface of the stitch. When you decrease the top tension, you are widening the space between the two tension plates in the sewing machine.

This allows more space for the thread to travel through and puts less tension on the thread itself. Metallic threads are made by wrapping microscopically thin sheets of aluminum around a cotton core. If too much tension is placed on the metal, it will start to unwrap from the core and fray, and then break.

If you have tried all of the above steps and the thread still appears to be too tight going through the needle, skip the last thread guide (the one closest to the needle).