I'll agree with getting a professional, though smoking them out isn't an option...they cluster around their queen in their hive when they're smoked, so that would just make them more inaccessible. Most beekeepers keep "swarm vacs" (I don't know if that's the proper term, but that's what we always called them) which allows them to safely vacuum up the bees and transplant them into a new hive. This would likely be used for the bulk of the bees, then smoke them in order to make the rest easy to collect and then remove the hive.
Since the hive is causing a problem, even if it's inaccessible right now you will have to open it up in some way to remove it, then seal the area that had the hive to prevent re-colonization...alternatively, you could seal it after as many bees are removed as possible and then just put up with the dripping until the honey dries up, but that's definitely a less-desirable course.
Below are 2 important points to keep in mind.
Step 1 – Make Sure You Aren’t Allergic.
Whether or not you have any other allergies, you may be allergic to bee stings. If you are allergic, the venom in a bee sting can cause serious problems such as swelling of the lips or throat, difficulty breathing, tightness of the throat, vomiting, diarrhea and passing out due to low blood pressure. For highly allergic individuals, this can be fatal.
If you have experienced an allergic bee sting reaction, then bee hive removal is best left to the professionals.
When attempting to perform bee hive removal, it’s important to wear appropriate clothing. Professional bee removers wear light-colored and smooth-textured clothing, and you should too. Bees are aggravated by dark-colors and rough clothing.
Look for a beekeeper’s veil and leather gloves for additional protection of your face and hands. A bee smoker can help calm bees and make them less likely to sting.
Step 3 - Location of the hive changes beehive removal techniques.
Bee hives can form in trees and bushes or under eaves of structures; they may appear in variations on the classic form we all know from cartoons. But bees and wasps can also live underground and in walls. In these locations (especially within walls), bee control, removal and killing all become more of a challenge.
A wall opening shouldn't simply be blocked off, because the bees will only be driven to find an exit inside the building itself, leading to a potentially dangerous situation for anyone in the building.
Beehives in a wall or underground definitely require the assistance of a skilled professional. Bee hive removal from a wall involves that much more skilled labor. Sometimes removal won't be an option; a professional will be able to assess the situation to make that judgment.
Even killing becomes more difficult within a wall. If honeybees or wasps are killed within a wall, all of the remains must be removed. Otherwise, residual honey or insect carcasses will attract other pests into the building.
The most common strategy for getting rid of bee hives is using an insecticide dust. Wait until the evening when the bees are slow and lethargic before removing the hive. Then, quickly spray a thick coat of the insecticide dust in the bee hive opening.
Don’t be alarmed if bees start swarming out the opening; this is normal. Just make sure to keep your distance from the bee hive.
Leave the bee hive alone for a day and repeat the process to ensure all of the bees are eliminated.
Once you’re certain the bee hive is empty, you’ll want to ensure more bees don’t move in. Put on protective gloves and destroy the bee hive. If the hive is located in your siding, contact a professional to repair the area.
Carpenter bees commonly inhabit rotting wood areas on the home. The only way to prevent re-infestation is to repair any vulnerable areas.
You’ll also want to thoroughly wash the hive’s previous site. That’s because bees can often smell the hive and may come back and build again in the same location.
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