What is the best way to get rid of weeds?

Vinegar is effective at killing weeds. The acetic acid in the vinegar is what kills the plants, and most vinegar that's made for human consumption, "culinary vinegar" is only around 5% acetic acid. This will still work, but might take several applications to do the trick.

You can find vinegar with higher acetic acid levels in some garden supply stores and farmers markets. Keep in mind though, the vinegar will pretty much kill anything it touches, so you may lose some of the grass around the weeds as well. In my opinion vinegar is a very good way to get rid of weeds without using harsh chemicals, but the best way to control weeds is to make sure you mow your yard often and pull them when you notice them.

Those things are not an overnight fix, but will improve the look of your lawn over time.

Under it is drywall, but we would like to have smooth painted walls. Asked by cbc6529 44 months ago Home > Home Improvement.

Boy, I wish I knew! Here is what I have tried. There are several types of texture.

Popcorn texture is not what I am talking about here, but it is almost never on walls, so I think I am making a good assumption. Here are the methods I use: 1. Remove and replace.

I like this best in my old house. It gives me the opportunity to fix things, like wiring, plumbing, insulation, rot, etc. , and I get rid of lead-based paint. Drywall isn’t expensive (about 30 cents / square foot), is easy and quick to install, and easy to float out and finish.

The results look great, and having the receptacle right where you need it (and enough of them) is great. However, it is the most expensive way to deal with texture, and I don’t use this method unless I have more of a reason than texture.2. Power Sand.

Texture can be sanded off with a good drywall sander, although sanding alone is almost impossible to get the wall smooth, so you are left doing a little of choice 3. Make sure the drywall sander is attached to a high-quality vacuum while you are doing it. If you have lead-based paint, this must be done as a lead-abatement project. Even with a great sander you will get some dust.(Basically, abatement amounts to sealing off the room using plastic sheeting and wide "blue" masking tape; wearing an approved respirator and dust suit; collecting all of the dust; disposing of all the refuse properly.

) See the Porter Cable drywall sander and vacuum I list in the Amazon products below.3. Float it out. If the texture isn’t too heavy, this choice is great.

For heavy texture you must knock the top off of the texture to get the required float thinner. You wash the wall lightly (or power sand as in choice 2) to remove any grease and dirt, then use drywall mud to cover the texture. It usually takes one coat to level and one coat to finish.

Then prime and finish the wall. For large expanses of texture, fresh premix mud is the way to go, unless you have a helper that just loves to mix mud and clean it. I say this, because the "setting type" mud, which comes as a powder, is the easiest to apply to cover texture, and it hardens (not dries).

You just don’t have much "open" time to get it up on the wall, and cleaning tools after it has hardened requires sandpaper. When I use it I mix only enough for 15 minutes of work, and I work with deliberate speed. It is easy to come back and get a place you miss, but hard to fix places where too much was applied.

Better to use multiple coats. I use two sets of tools, so that a helper can clean one set and mix another batch while I float the walls. When I use the setting type, I only require very minimal sanding, and there is almost no problem with shrinkage as it hardens.4.

Texture remover. This is just nasty messy. It is available at home centers in various forms, and is basically a special paint remover.

I hate using this stuff with a passion, but it is indispensable when the texture is placed on picture mold or crown molding, not just the walls.It is also great for the small areas you don’t want to tear off and replace or where sanding and floating just get too hard. I have worked with all sorts of texture, and I dislike all of it. I would rather pay an expert to float out plaster than to install texture.

And this leave us with the last two choices: 5. If they are competent contractors, insured and bonded, experienced at removing texture, and use appropriate dust abatement methods, they will make a tiresome, many week project into something that lasts only a few days. So this is the choice: either you like making yourself miserable for weeks, or you just want to get to enjoying the quality of life from no texture.

Or, you could just leave the stuff alone and buy another house. I suppose this is choice 6 and 7, and probably the best choices. Agedwirehead's Recommendations Porter-Cable 79080-5 80 Grit Hook & Loop Drywall Sander Pad & Discs - 5 Pack Amazon List Price: $39.08 Porter-Cable 7800 4.7 Amp Drywall Sander with 13-Foot Hose Amazon List Price: $840.68 Average Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 (based on 29 reviews) Porter-Cable 7812 10 Gallon 1-1/2 Horsepower Tool-Start Wet/Dry Vacuum Amazon List Price: $522.14 Average Customer Rating: 4.0 out of 5 (based on 20 reviews) Porter-Cable 78141 Dry Filter Bags for 7814 Power Tool Triggered Vacuum (3-Pack) Amazon List Price: $22.78 Average Customer Rating: 3.0 out of 5 (based on 2 reviews) This is a great setup for drywall texture removal.

The vacuum is available in a larger size. Make sure you use the bags when collecting dust. They make life much better.

The sander disks are available in many grits. You may need 50 grit for some harder, thicker textures, but too course and you will destroy the drywall..

Depends on what the texture consists of...... If it is a troweled on concrete type product with big ridges, sorry the best answer is remove the sheetrock and install new. If the pattern in relatively low you could skim coat the wall with joint tape and sand or install 1/4" or 3/8" sheet rock over it retape. If the texture is a joint compound material and the paint over it isn't to thick you may be able to sand some of the texture/paint off, then skim coat.

But it will be hard work and because of the hardness difference between Paint and joint compound, it's very hard to get a flat surface. If it is textured paint then it would depend on what gave the texture, was it sanded paint or was it the application that gave it the texture. If it is sanded your looking at skim coating again, or covering with 1/4" sheetrock and tapeing.

If it is just application texture of the paint some hard work with a drywall sanding pole and many sanding pads will probably get you a fairly flat wall. I know it sounds like a lot of work to remove sheetrock and reinstall but in most cases except the texture paint from application process, it's the fastest and best repair. And just think of all the improvements you could get done with the sheetrock down!P.S. All will require priming and repainting Sources: home inspector/contractor .

1 cbc: I've never faced that problem before, despite years and years of experience painting. However, the first, and only thing that came to mind wind, get a big bucket of 'thinset' and the 16 inch 'big knife', and cover it all. Let it dry a day, sand a lot...paint over it two coats.

I think that texturing could be a problem, some of those swirls can be pretty big and high. Off hand, I see no other way. BYE!

Cbc: I've never faced that problem before, despite years and years of experience painting. However, the first, and only thing that came to mind wind, get a big bucket of 'thinset' and the 16 inch 'big knife', and cover it all. Let it dry a day, sand a lot...paint over it two coats.

I think that texturing could be a problem, some of those swirls can be pretty big and high. Off hand, I see no other way. BYE!

2 Oh yeal,I meant to spell...came to my mind, get.......BYE! .

Oh yeal,I meant to spell...came to my mind, get.......BYE!

I hope you ment drywall/joint compound or "mud" to as a drywaller would call it.

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What is the history of big box home improvement stores in Michigan.

Wanting content for my home improvement site.

I'm looking for a home improvement / DIY group on usenet.

I am Italian too, so I hear you loud and clear. Unfortunately, unwanted hair needs to go. I have tried many products and prefer Avon's facial hair remover.

They have hair remover for other parts of the body as well. Hair stays gone for me, for almost a week and I think my hair grows pretty fast. You may also try waxing or tweezing.

I preferred the hair remover over those two methods. Tweezing facial hair can be time consuming but if you have time, hair stays gone longer. If you have alot of facial hair, it can take up to 30 minutes and can be a bit painful, but you will get used to it and soon enough it will be no bog deal.

I recommend laser hair removal because this method will remove 80% to 90% of unwanted hair. After having 6-12 sessions, any hair that does end up growing back is generally finer and lighter in color. Many people feel that laser hair removal is less painful than other methods, such as waxing, threading and electrolysis.

Source: affordable-laser-hair-removal.com.

I cant really gove you an answer,but what I can give you is a way to a solution, that is you have to find the anglde that you relate to or peaks your interest. A good paper is one that people get drawn into because it reaches them ln some way.As for me WW11 to me, I think of the holocaust and the effect it had on the survivors, their families and those who stood by and did nothing until it was too late.