There is still air in the system. On some GM vehicles the master cylinder sits at an angle. It has to be level to bleed.
Jack up the back end. To bleed the brakes, start with the back passenger wheel and work forward. Get a piece of hose that will just fit over the bleeder screw.
With the screw open, put one end over the screw and the other end in a container with an inch of brake fluid in it so that the end is covered. Now slowly pump the brake until most of the fluid in the master cylinder is gone. Stop before it is empty.
Close the screw and move to the drivers side and repeat. Front passengers then drivers. One fill of the master cylinder for each wheel should be enough to bleed any air.By using the hose method, it is impossible to get air back into the system IF the booster has lost vaccum, and is no longer working because of the loss of vaccum.
Or in the more modern models, electricity is not getting to the brake booster. Check your wiring and fuses.(Powered brakes work off of two sources, vaccum or electricity.) Or a bad booster. In a non "powered brake" vehicle (which there are NOT that many on the road...most are collectors cars...) it could be the "Master cylinder" has a bad seal or cracked piston.
The brake pedal would go to the floor after the brake booster brakes and the brakes have bled still because (without quotes):.
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