You have an 86' elcamino that turns over but doenst get any spark to start you've replaced the coil distributor cap and module what else could you fix to try and get it started?
Test stuff before you replace. See if it has a spark at the coil. If not, see if the coil is getting a pulsing supply voltage as you crank the engine.
If not, keep going back until you find out what's not working. It might be the ignition switch, make sure the ignition module is getting voltage from the switch before you replace a lot of parts. Now that you've replaced a bunch of parts, you don't know if one or more have been installed wrong.
You could have already repaired the problem but with so many parts having been "touched", you can't be certain that everything else works. When the vehicle broke down you could be fairly confident that it had only one component that wasn't working. Now you don't know how many components aren't working and you'll need to go verify the operation of everything AH YEA, whatever (Back when I was a kid, we didn't have computers).... the ditrubutor has a thingy underneith the ignition module, (points something or other) not important, (you have to drill stuff out and get parts that don't exist) it is far cheaper and faster to get a new distributor from e-bay for 50 bucks, google how to replace a HEI distributor (I didn't know the trick that takes 5 minutes to get it timed right again) and stop fooling around with everything else.
The GM Distributor Mounted Ignition Control Module (ICM), can be tested on the car or truck easily. Not only that, you don't need any expensive tools to do it. Now, AutoZone can test it for you (if you remove it and take it to them), but for those of you that can't afford the time this involves or for those who want to add another diagnostic technique to their 'toolbox' of know-how, this article is for you.
This article will walk you step by step thru' the testing and diagnostic of a MISFIRE or NO START Condition. You'll test the following components: Ignition Control Module, Spark Plug Wires, Distributor Cap and Rotor and Ignition Coil and Pick Up Coil of the GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Distributor type Ignition System. Before we start, just want to remind you that since this is an On Car test, do not remove the Ignition Control Module from the Distributor or the Ignition Coil.
Some of the images in this article show them off of the vehicle just to make it easier to explain their testing process. How to Test the 'Spider' Fuel Injector Assembly (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) (at: troubleshootmyvehicle.com). How to Diagnose Misfire Codes (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) (at: troubleshootmyvehicle.com).
GM Engine Compression Test (GM 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L) (at: troubleshootmyvehicle.com). How to Test a Misfire / No Spark-No Start Condition (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L 96-04). Here is a little background information (and I stress 'little') explained in plain english, to help you diagnose this NO START/NO SPARK Condition of the Distributor.
The Distributor shaft starts to rotate, inducing the Pick Up Coil to start generating its Magnetic Signal. This Pick UP Coil Signal is sent directly to the Ignition Control Module. The Ignition Module, upon receiving this Pick Up Coil Signal (for all intended purposes it's a Crankshaft Position Sensor Signal) converts it to a digital Signal that is now sent to the Fuel Injection Computer.
This digital Signal is called the: Distributor Reference Hi Signal in the majority of the Service Literature. Also, after receiving the Pick Up Coil Signal, the Ignition Control Module starts to switch the Primary Current (of the Ignition Coil) On and Off. As you might already know, it's this 'Switching Signal' that makes the Ignition Coil start Sparking away.
OK, once the Fuel Injection Computer receives the Reference it starts activating the Fuel Injectors and above 400 RPM's, starts to send a 5 V Bypass Signal to the Ignition Control Module. It's with the Bypass Signal that the Computer starts to retard and advance Ignition Timing with the IC Signal. So, then above 400 RPM's (any RPM above this and the ECM considers the engine as having started) the Fuel Injection Computer starts to control the Ignition Timing.
The tests that you're gonna' learn in this article only deal with steps 1 thru' 4, among several tests. But whether your car or truck DOES NOT START or STARTS but runs with a MISFIRE, this is the article for you! The car (or truck, or mini-van, or van) will Crank but NO START.
No Spark coming from any of the Spark Plug Wires. The Throttle Body Fuel Injectors do not spray gasoline. The car (or truck, or mini-van, or van) STARTS and RUNS, but with a Misfire.
The Check Engine light is on. Lack of power.
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