Best and cheapest Way to Rid Home of Cat Fleas?

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Have a flea problem with our two cats. Thought they were gone---they're back. Tried Advantage treatments, and 5-month flea collers are still in use.

What is the best way to "do-it-yourself", or is it best to just call Pest control? Asked by hisgirl77 61 months ago Similar questions: cheapest Rid Home Cat Fleas Pets > Cats.

Similar questions: cheapest Rid Home Cat Fleas.

Pest control may be your best option, but not your cheapest I've known people who have recurring flea problems even if their cats wear collars or take flea medication. Once the fleas are in your home, it can be difficult to get rid of them because they lay eggs everywhere. Most pet stores sell products that you just spray on carpet and furniture to kill adult fleas plus eggs, but they don't always work.

If the problem keeps recurring, a professional can treat your premises using a combination of insecticides and products that inhibit flea development. But I'd make sure you understand the following information and follow the advice below as a last try before calling the pest control office since it will save you money:The flea population of any given area comprises of 50% eggs 35% larvae 10% pupae and only 5% biting adults. Fleas lay their eggs after a blood feed on the animal but these flea eggs quickly drop off on to the carpet, floor, bedding and outside areas.In fact anywhere your pet goes becomes a battle zone.

The life cycle of the flea depends on temperature, humidity and source of food. The life cycle of the flea from egg to adulthood can vary from two weeks to eight months.An adult female flea can lay up to 600 eggs in its life time. Eggs can hatch anywhere between two days and two weeks.

After the eggs hatch they become larvae. These are little worm like insects that get deep into carpet fibres, in cracks between floor boards, under beds, furniture and rugs and around skirting boards. They also thrive in sand and gravel.

They feed on dead skin cells, organic material and the blood rich faeces of adult fleas. Although they don’t have legs they can move around and make their way to corners and crevicesThe little worm like larvae develop over a period of one to three weeks going through four moulting stages then spin themselves a silken cocoon, just like a caterpillar. This is called the pupae stage.

They can remain in their cocoons for several months but will hatch if conditions are right. Vibrations can trigger them to hatch and this is the reason why you can be suddenly covered by fleas after a house has been left unoccupied for a long period of time. It is important to note that while the fleas are in the pupae stage (in their cocoons) they are not affected by insecticides.

The cocoons are watertight and protect the developing flea. This is why you may think you have killed all the fleas and larvae in your home but two weeks later a new flea infestation can occur. Follow the instructions below and then repeat them in two to three weeks time if you notice more fleas emerging.

After the second treatment you will have killed all of the fleas in your house and on your pets.It is important to treat all of your pets and your house on the same day. It is pointless to treat your house and not your pet, it is also pointless to treat you pet and not your house. Your first step is to vacuum vacuum vacuum!

Vacuum your entire house paying particular attention to hidey holes for the larvae. They love to hide in dark places, under furniture, beds, pet beds, rugs and especially around skirting boards. Put the nozzle attachment on your vacuum cleaner and thoroughly vacuum around all skirting boards and edges of fixtures.

Try to keep in mind that you are vacuuming up flea eggs, flea larvae and flea pupae. You can’t see them but they are there. It is important to vacuum up the pupae because they are not affected by insecticides.

Vacuuming causes vibrations which stimulates pupae to emerge and thus be vacuumed up. When you have finished vacuuming dispose of the vacuum bag completely if you have disposable bags in your cleaner. Next Step - Spray InsecticideSpray all carpets, rugs and places your pet sleeps with a flea surface spray, flea bomb or fogger that kills flea eggs, larvae and emerging adult fleas.

Check the label of sprays for active ingredients. Preferably use one that contains IGR. Make sure you get into every nook and cranny and pay special attention around skirting boards and under rugs and furniture.

Last, don't forget to treat your yard, too. Spray around where the pet sleeps, in crevices, gravel and sandy areas. If you live in a high set house you will need to spray under the house.

Spray patios, verandahs, kennels and nooks and crannies. The majority of the yard which is in sunlight should be OK as the larvae avoid bright places. You can also let off flea bombs or flea foggers under your house on a windless day.

Next wash all of your pets bedding and soft toys. Shake them well and hang them in the sunlight to dry. If you still have fleas after this, then your best recourse (though not your cheapest) will be to call a pro.

Good luck! Sources: http://www.catsofaustralia.com/fleasgetridof.htm .

Lots and lots of cleaning and vacuuming, plus some pesticides Been there, done that. I moved into a place last year where the carpet was full of flea eggs from the previous owner's dog. My kitties were miserable, and I wasn't a lot better.

Vacuuming EVERYWHERE plus one pesticide treatment on the furniture and living room carpet did the trick. Fortunately I've got bare floors in a lot of the rest of the house. Washed every piece of fabric the cats come in contact with, or sprayed or otherwise cleaned it.

I had to take the furniture outside to spray it because the spray (which came from my local pet store) recommended being outdoors. It was cold out and I think that helped. Anything that moves the cocoons around (walking on the floor, vacuuming) "wakes up" the flea eggs and cocoons, so they mature to stages where you can attack them better.

Here's one good article, there are many others: uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef..." rel="nofollow">uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef... Sources: uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef..." rel="nofollow">uky.edu/Ag/Entomology/entfacts/struct/ef... newpenny's Recommendations Mycodex Plus Environmental Control Aerosol Household Spray (16-oz can) Adams Inverted Carpet Spray 16oz Average Customer Rating: 5.0 out of 5 (based on 2 reviews) CV - 80 Insect Control - 25 oz Amazon List Price: $19.95 Something like these - I haven't done a lot of research on which are best for your kitties, or for your home.

Flea Bombs! Flea bombs are a way to deal with insect infestations that basically spread a fog of insecticide through your house. They can be one of the more effective ways to kill fleas, because they'll get all the eggs as well, but they are also one of the more annoying because you can't be in the house while they are going off.

If you're going to use one, follow the instructions closely on staying out of the house. Keep your pets out of the house as well. You should also give your pets a flea dip or bath just before you set it off, because if you don't your pet is just going to bring the fleas right back in.

Also be aware that if you've got a dog or an outdoor cat, you need to do something about your yard as well. Usually a bomb will take some time - 8 hours or so is standard I believe.

1 Safety first - don't use harsh poisions...Just because they are low cost : they could make your pets very sick ... Try Natural and safe optons, first...Here is my Flea and Tick Natural Kit...YOU can use all or some of the optons....1. Critter oil / WONDERFUL and SAFEEEEEEEEEEhttp://www.critteroil.com/index.htmOR2. BEST Yet Cedar oil ( For CATS and DOGS) ANIMAL HEALTH PRODUCTSCEDAR OIL FORMULATIONS FOR CONTROL OF FLEAS, TICKS, MITES, LICE, MANGE AND EAR MITES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO ELIMINATE DANGEROUS SPOT DROP TREATMENTS OF YOUR PETS AND EXPENSIVE CHEMICAL PRESCRIPTIONS THAT PROVIDE ZERO RESULTShttp://www.cedarcidestore.com/ANIMALHEALTH.html3.NuVET Nutritional Program ~~~~~~~ For dogs and cats...Everyone needs one or two NuVET Wafers per day - Keeps the bugs away and also Keeps your baby safe and Healthy... KEEPS the VET away, too!

MOST dogs only need 1 NuVET wafer or 1 teaspoon of NuVET Powder per day. NuVET is sold by Holistic Vet Offices and the manufacturer..Go to : http://www.nuvet.com/81098 Ask for at least a 60 count bottle of the NuVET Plus at 39.00Also, mention discount code 81098 and get your 15% Off Program. Call 1-800-474-7044 and Discount code 81098 **TELL them PET Nurse Marie sent you ...4.D.E. ( From the EARTH)*** Diatomaceous earth (DE) works, and it's non-toxic not only to your dogs, but birds and other animals that pass through your back yard.

About D. Earth:Diatomaceous earth is a naturally occurring substances made up of crushed fossils of freshwater organisms or marine life. Insects like the fleas have a waxy coat which helps to prevent water loss through the body surface.

What the diatomaceous earth does is that it slices through the coat of the fleas and as such causing dehydration and eventually causes death of the fleas, larvae and eggs. DE is inactive in presence of water, it's more suited for use on dry walks, dry decks, dry patios, dry lawns. Outdoor flea treatment should focus on areas where your pets rest, sleep, and runs, such as doghouse and kennel areas, under decks, along fences and next to the foundation.

Use natural grade rather than pool grade diatomacious earth. Natural Grade for pets.........It is seldom necessary to treat the entire yard or open areas exposed to full sun. Simply sprinkle the Diatomaceous (DE) powder onto these areas.

PLEASE NOTE****If it rains, you will need to re-apply the D. Earth to your yard. You can also use D.E. on your pets/ just avoid the face/ eyes...NON toxic and very safe...( get a salt shaker or powder shaker...)GARLIC/ In the NuVET - VERY small amounts do help!

Also, give a NuVET wafer per day to your dogs...NUVET has a trace amount of Garlic in them...PLUS loads of other supplements that Keep the Fleas away...Fleas hate the taste of a Healthy pet's blood... They JUMP right off. If you have D. E powder they may not jump on at all.

CATS can use D.E., too! As for the cats, you can use D. E for them too...Just dust them 1 x per day with the D.E. powder.

Make sure you get the PURE and Plain D.Earth. CATS have a NuVET formula too! Cats also can benefit from some NuVET feline powder, too.

Ok, I have given you some very good options - you will need to use One of the top 2 and then a NuVET -Or you can try the D. Earth and the NuVET. HOUSE dogs and CATS may be able to get away with the D.

Earth powder and one NuVET per day...KEEP me posted. This will be so much safer for your pets...Marie Peppers LPN MAAsk the Pet Nursemtnmom@gci. NetNEED Help - Don't know what to choose?

Write to me at my private e-mail ( mtnmom@gci. Net)I will try to direct you..

Safety first - don't use harsh poisions...Just because they are low cost : they could make your pets very sick ... Try Natural and safe optons, first...Here is my Flea and Tick Natural Kit...YOU can use all or some of the optons....1. Critter oil / WONDERFUL and SAFEEEEEEEEEEhttp://www.critteroil.com/index.htmOR2. BEST Yet Cedar oil ( For CATS and DOGS) ANIMAL HEALTH PRODUCTSCEDAR OIL FORMULATIONS FOR CONTROL OF FLEAS, TICKS, MITES, LICE, MANGE AND EAR MITES EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO ELIMINATE DANGEROUS SPOT DROP TREATMENTS OF YOUR PETS AND EXPENSIVE CHEMICAL PRESCRIPTIONS THAT PROVIDE ZERO RESULTShttp://www.cedarcidestore.com/ANIMALHEALTH.html3.NuVET Nutritional Program ~~~~~~~ For dogs and cats...Everyone needs one or two NuVET Wafers per day - Keeps the bugs away and also Keeps your baby safe and Healthy... KEEPS the VET away, too!